Viscose is one of the most widely used semi-synthetic fabrics in the world, known for its silk-like texture, softness, and versatility. Often labelled as “rayon” in the United States, viscose has been a staple in fashion and textiles since the early 20th century. But what exactly is viscose, and how sustainable is it really?
What Is Viscose?
Viscose is a type of rayon, made from cellulose—the main component of plant cell walls—typically derived from wood pulp. This pulp most often comes from fast-growing trees such as beech, pine, or eucalyptus, although bamboo is also a common source.
The name “viscose” refers to the viscous organic liquid used during its manufacturing process. Though the raw material is natural, the way it’s processed makes viscose a semi-synthetic fabric.
How Is Viscose Made?
The production of viscose involves several chemical steps:
- Harvesting the wood and extracting cellulose.
- Processing the cellulose with chemicals like sodium hydroxide and carbon disulfide to create a viscous solution.
- Spinning the solution is made into fibres by forcing it through spinnerets into an acid bath.
- Drying and treating the fibres are dried and treated to make them suitable for textile production.
While the end result is a soft, breathable fabric that drapes well and absorbs moisture—similar to cotton or silk—the chemical-intensive process has raised environmental and health concerns.
Is Viscose Sustainable?
The sustainability of viscose is complex. On the one hand, it’s derived from renewable resources and is biodegradable. On the other, traditional viscose production can:
- Use toxic chemicals that harm workers and ecosystems if not properly managed.
- Lead to deforestation when wood pulp is sourced unsustainably.
- Contribute to water and air pollution due to chemical discharge.
Fortunately, more sustainable alternatives are emerging. For instance, Lenzing’s EcoVero and TENCEL™ Modal and Lyocell are made using closed-loop processes that recover and reuse chemicals, reducing environmental impact.
What Should Consumers Look For?
When shopping for viscose, check labels and certifications:
- FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) or PEFC certification – indicating responsible forest management.
- TENCEL™ or Lenzing’s EcoVero branding – these types of viscose are produced with better environmental controls.
- Transparency from brands – companies committed to ethical sourcing and clean manufacturing practices often share details about their supply chain.
Final Thoughts
Viscose sits at a unique intersection between natural and synthetic textiles. It offers comfort and style at an accessible price, but with environmental and ethical trade-offs that consumers should be aware of. As demand for more sustainable fashion grows, innovation in viscose production is likely to continue—making it a material to watch for in the future of conscious design.
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